The Toddy Palm (Part 2)

The Toddy Palm (Part 4)

Efforts and support are needed to promote internationally. Gaining international recognition for one’s food is part of showcasing a country’s development and progress.

Dr. Ma Chio Le Aung explains that promoting and supporting a country’s cuisine internationally is crucial. When food no longer aligns with people’s lifestyles, it tends to be forgotten. Additionally, in Myanmar, there are few television programs to introduce food products. For example, in Korea, there are many TV programs dedicated to introducing Korean cuisine. Kimchi-making methods are demonstrated by celebrities, and films often feature scenes of kimchi preparation by grandmothers, reflecting their culture and traditions. Such media exposure helps Korean food spread globally, leading people to learn about and appreciate it.

In contrast, Myanmar lacks similar media presence for promoting its food. There are no TV programs dedicated to introducing Myanmar cuisine, and even if one wants to introduce it, there are no programs available to showcase it. In Japan, even a single candy is introduced to the world, demonstrating their expertise. This kind of promotion is essential for making the world aware of Myanmar's food.

Moreover, there’s a strong sense of affection for their cuisine, country, and culture. When they introduce their food, it becomes widely accepted around the world. For example, Thailand has made its cuisine accessible globally. Take Thai curry, for instance; it’s been adapted to suit international tastes, not just the traditional version found in Thailand. The Thai government supports this by helping open restaurants abroad, spreading their culture through their food. Myanmar lacks such widespread promotion, which is a significant disadvantage. However, in the modern internet age, there are opportunities to explore how to introduce Myanmar cuisine effectively.

Another factor is migration. The demographics of people who move can also influence this. For instance, in the case of Vietnamese Pho, people from other countries, including Americans, know how to eat it, what ingredients to use, and how to prepare it. This is due to the significant number of people from Vietnam who have moved abroad and opened restaurants, thereby spreading their culture and providing knowledge about their cuisine to others. As a result, many people around the world are now familiar with how to enjoy Vietnamese food.

How Toddy Palm (jaggery) is Made

Jaggery refers to a type of sweet treat made from cooking down jaggery juice. Most of the betel nut production businesses in Myanmar are small family-run enterprises.

The production season for betel nut lasts from the month of Tazaungmon (November) to the month of Thadingyut (October), spanning over six months. During the first month of Tazaungmon and around the full moon in that period, the initial batch produced is called betel nut paste. After about a month, jaggery is produced. The first batch of jaggery paste is dark in color but is medicinal. Jaggery that hasn't been processed yet is fragrant. Jaggery paste that has been properly prepared can be consumed.

Palm juice producers work diligently both in the morning and in the evening. The jaggery paste produced from these morning and evening sessions is of very high quality. Because the palm juice ferments very quickly and can turn into alcohol (Palm wine), producers ensure that the juice is properly fermented before it is processed into paste.

Women involved in the production process collect and prepare the palm juice. The cooking is done in specially constructed brick and clay stoves. Some producers do not use modern stoves; instead, they use dried palm leaves, coconut shells, and other natural materials as fuel.

Palm Juice Production

Palm juice is collected twice a day. The juice collected in the afternoon is allowed to ferment overnight, and then it is mixed with the juice collected the next day for cooking. The cooking is done using large clay stoves or pots. Typically, three or four large pots are used, but in some areas, up to seven or eight pots might be used.

During the cooking process, if the palm juice begins to bubble up and overflow, it’s necessary to have an assistant present to manage it. If the juice starts to boil over, it is stirred to prevent the betel nut paste from sticking to the bottom of the pots.

The juice from each pot is transferred to the next pot in a process called ‘betel nut paste transfer.’ This step takes about half an hour to an hour. The transfer process helps to quickly remove steam and prevent the paste from sticking. During this transfer, one batch of paste is moved while the next batch is being prepared. Each batch of palm paste can yield about three to four viss (a traditional unit of weight) of paste.

Jaggery Paste Stages

Jaggery paste has three stages:

1. Water Extract (ရေနု): This is the stage where, if left before the paste fully dries, it results in a white, thick extract called 'water extract.' At this stage, the paste is not yet fully processed, so no additional liquids are needed. Because the liquid is still relatively thin, it can be used as is or mixed with other ingredients. The water extract stage is less labor-intensive for those preparing the paste and is also convenient for those returning to the process after a break.

2. Sap (သကာရည် or ဇကာရည်): This refers to the stage where the paste has been cooking for a few minutes. At this point, the paste has a thicker consistency compared to the water extract stage.

3. Jaggery Paste (ထန်းလျက်အလုံး): The final stage of the paste, which can be eaten by hand. However, since the water extract and sap stages are liquid forms, it's better to use a spoon for eating or mixing

Challenges in Making Small Quantities of Jaggery Paste

In the past, families who have worked in jaggery production in the regions of Nwa Htoe Kyee, Myin Hkyan District, and Mandalay Division, and who are now government employees at Dagon University, have shared insights. According to Daw Kyu Kyu Khaing, a university instructor, “jaggery requires cooking with a large number of pots. The paste is cooked until it thickens and then shaped into the desired forms. During the shaping process, the paste is often heated by dipping it in water. Due to the high heat, it becomes difficult to shape small amounts. The process also involves constant stirring and heating, which makes it challenging to manage small quantities efficiently.

Even with a household of just three people, one person has to handle tasks such as collecting and cleaning the pots, lighting the fire, and managing the fermenting process. Enzymes and microorganisms are abundant, which makes it necessary to constantly monitor and control the fermentation to prevent spoilage. This process can be likened to a sterilization step in technological terms.
One person is responsible for cleaning the pots, lighting the fire, and adding the palm liquid to the large pots. Another person handles the mixing and shaping of the paste. The final person is responsible for cooking the paste, pouring it into molds, and shaping it. The process involves continuous switching of tasks and careful management to avoid spoilage.
If you need to work with small quantities, the process becomes even more laborious. For instance, if you are preparing smaller amounts, you might need to reduce the heat of the fire to avoid overcooking the paste. If the paste turns sour due to overcooking, it becomes impossible to achieve a good quality product. Managing time and temperature is crucial, and any errors can result in the paste becoming unusable. Due to these complexities, it’s challenging to work with small amounts of jaggery paste.”

Types of Jaggery Paste

When looking at the method for making paste in a general sense, the process involves adding clean, sweet palm juice extract from the palm into large pots and cooking it over high heat for about an hour until it thickens and becomes sticky. Once the liquid has evaporated and the jaggery paste has solidified, it is removed from the heat and shaped into the desired forms. After shaping, the paste is allowed to cool and dry, resulting in the final jaggery product. Some variations may include adding ingredients like sugar, coconut, rice flour, or peanuts based on personal preference.

There are about eight different types of betel nut paste, which are:

1. Plain Jaggery 
2. Asian Jaggery
3. Jaggery Paste with Palm Juice
4. Coconut and palm Jaggery
5. Plum Jaggery
6. Milk Jaggery
7. Sesame Jaggery
8. Peanut Jaggery

Among these, coconut jaggery and plum jaggery are noted to be the most popular.

Usage of Jaggery

Jaggery is commonly used in a variety of Myanmar sweets. It can be found in nearly all traditional Myanmar desserts. Examples of Myanmar sweets that include jaggery are:

• Mont Let Saung (sweet pastry)
• Mont Sane Poun (Brown) (a type of steamed cake)
• Mont Le Pya (a type of snack cake)
• Bain Mont (Brown) (another cake)
• Mont Lone Yay Paw (glutinous rice cake)
• Jone Kyo (a type of dessert)
• Thaku Kyo (a type of dessert)
• Mont Let Kauk ((a type of fried dessert))
• Kauk Nhin Shwe Htamin (sweet rice cake)
• Khao Mont (a type of dessert)
• Mont Kya Sate (a type of snack)
• Siyo (traditional cake)
• Kaye Kaye (a type of sweet)
• Pauk Pauk Sope (a type of dessert)
• Nann Phet Sope (a type of dessert)